I'm not sure I quite agree with Enno's definition of great but I tend to generally agree otherwise with his and others comments on the course. I hadn't played the course previously so had no real prior notions as to how the course played.
What struck me from the off however was not the bunkering, which was epic and beautifully done, but the carries off the tee. I found them intimidating on two counts; firstly the carry was generally over rough, dense vegetation which while pleasing to the eye more often than not was a ball lost if you went in it; secondly due to the relatively flat nature of the land and the height of the vegetation it was had to determine where the rough ended and where the fairway started. For the same reason it was also hard to determine distances to the fairway bunkers (I don't carry distance gadgets).
Of course a golf hole is only blind once and all that and in that respect the course is a true members course that you need to get to know. Going up the 16th hole on the first round I'd suggested to my playing partners that there was a lot to admire about the course but that I didn't think I'd ever love it. In hindsight and having played it again, I think I'd learn to love it fine, even if it is an unrelenting test of golf. In that respect it is much like Carnoustie which in my book is another great course.
Niall
ps. agree totally with comments on Richard's talk. A definite highlight for me.