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Sean_A

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2023-24 Winter Tour: Astounding ASKERNISH GC 1-14
« on: May 08, 2024, 06:07:08 AM »
Many people thought I was not right in the head for organizing an Outer Hebrides trip during March/April, but needs must. We figured it’s just as easy to catch horrible weather in June as it is in March. Besides, I have a healthy fear of midges and will happily sacrifice warmer weather for the absence of such. The Winter Tour continued from Turnberry north to Oban for the night. From there we travelled further north to Mallaig, where we caught a ferry to Lochboisdale on South Uist. Our longest ferry journey covered without incident had us looking sideways at one another. The weather was sunny, but decidedly chilly and it felt more so with a significant northerly wind. Of course, our reason for being on South Uist was to play Askernish.

Lochboisdale


Originally designed by Old Tom Morris in 1891, the course was partly a means to lure well connected tourists to the this Hebridean outpost. By the early 1920s crofters claimed the land for daily use and that seemed the end of the course. A 12-hole course was laid over the flatter land adjacent to a new airfield built in the mid-1930s.  Air service was short-lived when Benbecula became the primary airfield for the islands. With a Ministry of Defence Rocket Range opening nearby in the 50s, the fortunes of Askernish were back on the rise. Things went swimmingly with military personnel about. A new 9-hole course was laid out in 1970. About 10 or so years later construction work dried up and so did interest in Askernish. The club and course only just survived until the 90s. Recently retired Colin MacGregor arrived in 2002 and tended to the course. Evidently his fervour was such that others became interested in the fortunes of golf on South Uist.

By chance, Gordon Irvine called the club Chairman, Ralph Thompson, in 2005. Gordon was initially seeking a getaway holiday and was intrigued by a course he never heard of…especially one with OTM pedigree. Gordon visited the course in 2005. During that time, he walked the course with R Thompson and now greenkeeper, Colin MacGregor. Gordon had seen enough. He would return in March 2006 with Martin Ebert, Chris Haspell and Adam Lawrence. Martin Ebert developed a plan along the lines he thought OTM might have followed. This plan was the impetus for the course we know today. The plan was modified here and there, but it was the industrious efforts of MacGregor and other locals which shaped the plan into a course which properly opened in 2008. Many others have contributed time and money into the project which allowed for improvements, but the list is too long for this tour. 

There are no artificial fertilisers or herbicides used, just as was the case 135 years ago. The course is grazed by cattle and sheep, just as was the case 135 years ago. To date, it isn’t known how much OTM work remains, but that fact is largely irrelevant. The focus should more rightly be placed on what exists. Askernish is a design of unmatched character with some of the most provocative holes and greens in Scotland. It is unnecessary to dwell over the OTM history. Askernish is what it is.



The fairly new house does the job.


Walking to the first tee I spied a tell tale sign of grazing animals...a stock grid. Although, at Askernish it doesn't take long to find cattle. Their presence essentially created a dogleg for the opener.  Before teeing off I had a look at the course map. It was evident that a significant section of the course wouldn't be in the dunes. It turns out 1-6 and 18 are on the flat machair section of the property.


The opening tee shot. There must be a natural pocket wetland on the right. Cows hang out around this area making it a lost ball zone. There are a surprising number of these wetlands throughout Askernish.


The hole isn't impressive until reaching the green. Without exception the greens are small, contoured and/or sloping.


The cattle remain an integral part of the course on the short 2nd.


An odd hole, the third is a short par 4 which legs left. For those long enough, a direct line at the green can be taken. I am sure that in summer months with the rough up this option would be far more risky. Turning back on ourselves, the 4th is the highlight hole of this section of the course. Again, the drive is not well defined because of the lack of rough, but there are pocket wetlands which can consume a ball.


The approach.


A very cool green with sharp drop-offs.


Behind the 5th green, pasture golf for sure. A farmer started a fire I believe to burn out ticks which cause grief for sheep. The smoke billowed over the course for the remainder of the day. Unfortunately, this fire got out of control and by nightime several hills were ablaze. Fire engines were called to the scene, but I don't think there was much that could be done if the situation became highly serious.


Another three-shotter, the 6th turns right up the duneside. These sand scrapes in the fairways are somewhat common. Luckily, I only found one during the round and didn't do well trying to cope with it. Askernish is rustic!
 

The front left of the green...a nasty hole location. For some reason this green was far sandier than the others. My mate Dave is in the background. The incline to the green is much sharper than this photo indicates.
 

More to follow.

Ciao
« Last Edit: May 18, 2024, 04:40:36 PM by Sean_A »
New plays planned for 2024: Fraserburgh, Hankley Common, Ashridge, Gog Magog Old & Cruden Bay St Olaf

Adam Lawrence

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Re: 2023-24 Winter Tour: Astounding ASKERNISH GC
« Reply #1 on: May 08, 2024, 07:42:25 AM »
The livestock are on the course all winter and go onto the hill in spring, probably not long after you were there.

I'm not convinced the course was originally built to encourage tourists to visit. I'm pretty certain it was built for the entertainment of the laird's guests -- there would have been quite a few for fishing and stalking.

There is a _lot_ of windblown sand -- I remember when we were there in March 2006 there was a huge pile of it in what became the seventh fairway. The sixth green has been moved a couple of times, and is (a) pretty close to the water and (b) quite high up on the seawall dune -- I imagine that is why there was more windblow.
« Last Edit: May 08, 2024, 07:46:22 AM by Adam Lawrence »
Adam Lawrence

Editor, Golf Course Architecture
www.golfcoursearchitecture.net

Principal, Oxford Golf Consulting
www.oxfordgolfconsulting.com

Author, 'More Enduring Than Brass: a biography of Harry Colt' (forthcoming).

Short words are best, and the old words, when short, are the best of all.

David_Tepper

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Re: 2023-24 Winter Tour: Astounding ASKERNISH GC
« Reply #2 on: May 08, 2024, 11:54:32 AM »
I apologize for going "off topic" so early in this thread, but I am curious if anyone knows how successful the course has been in attracting visitor play in the last couple of years.

Meanwhile, I am looking forward to seeing the rest of Sean's photo tour. Thanks as always.

Sean_A

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Re: 2023-24 Winter Tour: Astounding ASKERNISH GC
« Reply #3 on: May 08, 2024, 12:05:46 PM »
I apologize for going "off topic" so early in this thread, but I am curious if anyone knows how successful the course has been in attracting visitor play in the last couple of years.

Meanwhile, I am looking forward to seeing the rest of Sean's photo tour. Thanks as always.

I have no idea how well Askernish is doing. The house and maintenance shed are in good nick. On a trip where few houses had staff, Askernish had someone behind the counter. That said, there was only one other group on the course when we were there. I am not sure how much business can be expected 52 weeks a year with an island residence under 2000. I expect many more tourists show up paying double green fees in summer.

Ciao
« Last Edit: May 08, 2024, 01:15:08 PM by Sean_A »
New plays planned for 2024: Fraserburgh, Hankley Common, Ashridge, Gog Magog Old & Cruden Bay St Olaf

Marty Bonnar

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Re: 2023-24 Winter Tour: Astounding ASKERNISH GC
« Reply #4 on: May 08, 2024, 12:20:50 PM »
This has me massively conflicted.
I KNOW I’m SUPPOSED to absolutely love this, and as a fat, hairy Scotsman it’s supposed to have some kind of magical, mystical draw on me - and my heart is saying, “och, aye” and I’ve been desperate to see it since the ‘resto’.
BUT
After seeing the photos, my head is saying “ehm, nah”.
Maybe it’s all just a micro-hair too rustic for me, but, right now, I could take it or leave it. Maybe if Adam’s stag-do had gone ahead I might have a different opinion. Fine Single Malts have that effect on me.
 ???
F.
The White River runs dark through the heart of the Town,
Washed the people coal-black from the hole in the ground.

Adam Lawrence

  • Karma: +0/-0
Re: 2023-24 Winter Tour: Astounding ASKERNISH GC
« Reply #5 on: May 08, 2024, 01:35:41 PM »
I apologize for going "off topic" so early in this thread, but I am curious if anyone knows how successful the course has been in attracting visitor play in the last couple of years.

Meanwhile, I am looking forward to seeing the rest of Sean's photo tour. Thanks as always.

I have no idea how well Askernish is doing. The house and maintenance shed are in good nick. On a trip where few houses had staff, Askernish had someone behind the counter. That said, there was only one other group on the course when we were there. I am not sure how much business can be expected 52 weeks a year with an island residence under 2000. I expect many more tourists show up paying double green fees in summer.

Ciao

They made me an honorary life member a while back so I could probably work it out from the stuff they send to members...
« Last Edit: May 08, 2024, 01:49:45 PM by Adam Lawrence »
Adam Lawrence

Editor, Golf Course Architecture
www.golfcoursearchitecture.net

Principal, Oxford Golf Consulting
www.oxfordgolfconsulting.com

Author, 'More Enduring Than Brass: a biography of Harry Colt' (forthcoming).

Short words are best, and the old words, when short, are the best of all.

Adam Lawrence

  • Karma: +0/-0
Re: 2023-24 Winter Tour: Astounding ASKERNISH GC
« Reply #6 on: May 08, 2024, 01:39:01 PM »
This has me massively conflicted.
I KNOW I’m SUPPOSED to absolutely love this, and as a fat, hairy Scotsman it’s supposed to have some kind of magical, mystical draw on me - and my heart is saying, “och, aye” and I’ve been desperate to see it since the ‘resto’.
BUT
After seeing the photos, my head is saying “ehm, nah”.
Maybe it’s all just a micro-hair too rustic for me, but, right now, I could take it or leave it. Maybe if Adam’s stag-do had gone ahead I might have a different opinion. Fine Single Malts have that effect on me.
 ???
F.

I think you should wait till Sean's tour is finished before coming to any conclusions. Askernish really starts on the seventh tee.

That said, there's no doubt the combination of minimal maintenance, livestock and climate make it a challenging place to run a golf course. It's very bleak when the grass isn't growing and very wild when it is. But on a nice day when you're in the big dunes, there aren't many places I would rather be.
« Last Edit: May 08, 2024, 01:49:58 PM by Adam Lawrence »
Adam Lawrence

Editor, Golf Course Architecture
www.golfcoursearchitecture.net

Principal, Oxford Golf Consulting
www.oxfordgolfconsulting.com

Author, 'More Enduring Than Brass: a biography of Harry Colt' (forthcoming).

Short words are best, and the old words, when short, are the best of all.

Sean_A

  • Karma: +0/-0
Re: 2023-24 Winter Tour: Astounding ASKERNISH GC
« Reply #7 on: May 08, 2024, 01:42:14 PM »
This has me massively conflicted.
I KNOW I’m SUPPOSED to absolutely love this, and as a fat, hairy Scotsman it’s supposed to have some kind of magical, mystical draw on me - and my heart is saying, “och, aye” and I’ve been desperate to see it since the ‘resto’.
BUT
After seeing the photos, my head is saying “ehm, nah”.
Maybe it’s all just a micro-hair too rustic for me, but, right now, I could take it or leave it. Maybe if Adam’s stag-do had gone ahead I might have a different opinion. Fine Single Malts have that effect on me.
 ???
F.

FBD

I will say Askernish is not for everyone. Its a very tough walk (some very long transitions), especially in winter when trying to avoid cow shit and muddy paths etc. The greens are very iffy...rabbit scrapes, slow and some are sandy. The course is far from easy as many of the greens are very difficult targets. However, there are some sublime holes and greens.

Ciao
New plays planned for 2024: Fraserburgh, Hankley Common, Ashridge, Gog Magog Old & Cruden Bay St Olaf

Sean_A

  • Karma: +0/-0
Re: 2023-24 Winter Tour: Astounding ASKERNISH GC
« Reply #8 on: May 11, 2024, 02:41:34 PM »
Askernish Tour Cont

It is a shame the course doesn't reach the dunes until the 7th. One can begin to wonder what all the fuss is about. Yet from the 7th, the magic switch is on. The hole fiercely snakes up the length of a valley.


The green is decidely unreceptive.


Looking back to the tee.


The 8th is a bit of break at 280 yards, but there are hidden dangers. Just right of the photo the fairway falls away to rough country.


A look at the flag when playing the 9th.


9 took me aback. The drive plays up a valley to a ridge. Many will not be able to reach the top of the ridge and be left with a blind approach....which is near on impossible.


The green sits on a ridge with no respite short or long.


The green as seen from the right...the sensible area to play to if one can't hold the green.


The green is gnarly in its condition and design. This is an outrageous hole, but I could only laugh at my failure.


More to come.

Ciao
New plays planned for 2024: Fraserburgh, Hankley Common, Ashridge, Gog Magog Old & Cruden Bay St Olaf

Matt MacIver

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Re: 2023-24 Winter Tour: Astounding ASKERNISH GC 1-9
« Reply #9 on: May 11, 2024, 04:20:56 PM »
Is there a story to the large and deep pot bunker left green side on 8, i.e. natural, man-made or both?  Looks like you’d never be able to climb back out….

Adam Lawrence

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Re: 2023-24 Winter Tour: Astounding ASKERNISH GC 1-9
« Reply #10 on: May 11, 2024, 05:17:29 PM »
It was there when we found the hole. Somewhere I have a great photo from March 2006 of Martin Ebert in that pit, but I can't immediately find it. Will keep looking.
Adam Lawrence

Editor, Golf Course Architecture
www.golfcoursearchitecture.net

Principal, Oxford Golf Consulting
www.oxfordgolfconsulting.com

Author, 'More Enduring Than Brass: a biography of Harry Colt' (forthcoming).

Short words are best, and the old words, when short, are the best of all.

Niall C

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Re: 2023-24 Winter Tour: Astounding ASKERNISH GC 1-9
« Reply #11 on: May 12, 2024, 03:55:47 AM »
A question for Adam


Sean refers to the magic starting at the 7th once you get into the dune country. How was the routing decided ? Was it an attempt to try and find the Old Tom layout which might have encompassed the flatter ground or was their more practical reasons for not basing more of the course in the dune country ?


Niall

Adam Lawrence

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Re: 2023-24 Winter Tour: Astounding ASKERNISH GC 1-9
« Reply #12 on: May 12, 2024, 11:09:26 AM »
It was obvious that the course had to start roughly where it does, as the road going past Askernish House was the only tarmac entrance to the machair. When we arrived there, in March 2006, then club chairman Ralph Thompson drove us down from Benbecula Airport and out onto the machair (there was no clubhouse then). He stopped, and indicated for us to get out, at a point close to where the seventh tee now is. I remember thinking, well, this is obviously links, but it's not spectacular, what am I doing here? Then we walked the few yards to the edge of the drop in front of what is now the seventh tee, and the world changed. Steve Smyers once told me that every piece of property has an emotional 'centre' from which it all makes sense: this is very clear at Askernish. The seventh hole was the first thing routed; it is as obvious a hole as it is possible to imagine, though I remember us all wondering how playable it would be into the prevailing wind -- there was A LOT of windblown sand forming a pretty substantial carry hazard. The green site at the end of the valley was equally obvious, although it is one of only a few places on the course where any real shaping work has been done -- Mike Keiser later provided enough funding for Eric Iverson to spend a bit of time there, and one of the things he did was to make the seventh green a little less difficult to hit and hold -- in its original forms it was rather ball-repelling.

After identifying the seventh, we walked south into the dunes, and the holes were not hard to find. Walking down what became the eighth, Martin said quietly to me 'Well this has suddenly become the most exciting project on the books'. We turned for home at the south end of Askernish Farm, which is nowhere near the limit of the dunes -- there are several hundred more acres of them further south. I found the punchbowl in which the fifteenth green sits, and rather proudly made a three the first time I returned to play 'my' green  :)  The spectacular par five twelfth is an entirely Gordon Irvine hole -- he routed it during the winter of 2006-07 when the course was being prepared for play ('constructed' isn't really the right word).

Given the desire to stay within the confines of Askernish Farm, it was clear that there would have to be holes to the north, where, as you note, the ground is less spectacular. Those were routed later in the day, and were changed later by Martin Ebert and Gordon -- there was one hole up there whose loss I particularly mourn, as the green site was fabulous. But there was _huge_ rabbit infestation and a number of ideas had to be abandoned because rabbit activity had left the ground less than stable. The sixth hole is called 'Runway' in commemoration of the Askernish machair's use as an airfield in the thirties. I don't know whether any of the ground was levelled at that point, but it wouldn't surprise me.

The only real evidence of Old Tom's course is a map of the property at the time it was crofted, which has what may be green sites marked. It's quite clear that the reason Emily Cathcart had the course created was to serve as an asset for her fishing and stalking 'guests'; as such, I can't see a holiday course that was created in 1891 being very long. I think it would have been a glorified pitch and putt by today's standards. We did suspect that we might have found one or two of the original green sites -- the par three fourteenth, on top of a dune that you would swear had been flattened -- was the most obvious.

That night after dinner and a fair amount of alcohol, Martin retired with his laptop to his room at the Borrodale Hotel, emerging the following morning with the first routing plan of Askernish, though, as I said, it was altered subsequently. Ralph, Donald MacInnes and a number of the other members, started playing the new routing essentially there and then. The greens were worked up by Gordon's volunteers over subsequent months, and the course came properly into play the following spring, when Honorary President Kenny Dalgleish hit the ceremonial opening drive.
« Last Edit: May 12, 2024, 11:31:35 AM by Adam Lawrence »
Adam Lawrence

Editor, Golf Course Architecture
www.golfcoursearchitecture.net

Principal, Oxford Golf Consulting
www.oxfordgolfconsulting.com

Author, 'More Enduring Than Brass: a biography of Harry Colt' (forthcoming).

Short words are best, and the old words, when short, are the best of all.

Adam Lawrence

  • Karma: +0/-0
Re: 2023-24 Winter Tour: Astounding ASKERNISH GC 1-9
« Reply #13 on: May 12, 2024, 11:25:29 AM »
Is there a story to the large and deep pot bunker left green side on 8, i.e. natural, man-made or both?  Looks like you’d never be able to climb back out….


Martin in 'bunker'

« Last Edit: May 12, 2024, 03:33:18 PM by Adam Lawrence »
Adam Lawrence

Editor, Golf Course Architecture
www.golfcoursearchitecture.net

Principal, Oxford Golf Consulting
www.oxfordgolfconsulting.com

Author, 'More Enduring Than Brass: a biography of Harry Colt' (forthcoming).

Short words are best, and the old words, when short, are the best of all.

Adam Lawrence

  • Karma: +0/-0
Re: 2023-24 Winter Tour: Astounding ASKERNISH GC 1-9
« Reply #14 on: May 12, 2024, 11:28:40 AM »
Fourteenth green:



Sand scar showing effect of rabbits:


« Last Edit: May 13, 2024, 11:54:19 AM by Adam Lawrence »
Adam Lawrence

Editor, Golf Course Architecture
www.golfcoursearchitecture.net

Principal, Oxford Golf Consulting
www.oxfordgolfconsulting.com

Author, 'More Enduring Than Brass: a biography of Harry Colt' (forthcoming).

Short words are best, and the old words, when short, are the best of all.

Matt MacIver

  • Karma: +0/-0
Re: 2023-24 Winter Tour: Astounding ASKERNISH GC 1-9
« Reply #15 on: May 13, 2024, 09:27:42 AM »
Thanks Adam for the picture — quite the before & after and it looks like some rabbits might have been displaced to less active golfing grounds. 

Sean_A

  • Karma: +0/-0
Re: 2023-24 Winter Tour: Astounding ASKERNISH GC 1-9 New
« Reply #16 on: May 18, 2024, 04:31:56 PM »
Adam

Thank your the post! Hopefully others with intimate knowledge will chime in.

ASKERNISH TOUR CONT

Playing up a valley, the 10th is not terribly dissimilar to the 7th. The green, however, is a more welcoming target.


Looking back to the tee.


A profoundly intimidating tee shot, the short 11th is a ball buster. The hole is about 200 uphill yards and on this day played into the teeth of a good wind. From the tee there looks to be no succuessful option other than hitting the green. The photo below is from well forward of the tee. The crevice on the left is blind!




It turns out there is some room right of the green, but this is blind from the tee as well. Behind the green looking down the coast; the tee is right, down the hill.


We reached the 12th after an exceptionally long walk. This hole was meant to be a split fairway. We didn't see one fairway let alone two. As it turns out, 12-14 were altered in 2022. The alternate fairway to the left became the 13th fairway. The drive for 12 dives into a short valley left of the dune.


The second plays blindly up to the flat. The third blind over a large bunker. This side view gives a a better idea of the shot.


This side view gives a a better idea of the shot.


A closer look at the rolling green.


13 looked as though it should play perpindicular to the 12th. It turns out the hole used to play that way. These days we play down the old aldernate fairway of the 12th. The landscape is wild and doesn't seem as though it will lead anywhere. The fairway is bi-level with low section seeming as though it can sometimes be wet...a pocket wetland?


The hole is a short two-shotter which at 235 yards is really a par 3. Regardless of the par, we couldn't make out the green very well other than to realize it was raised. Once again....undulations.


The nature of the green is better understood from high ground. Play is from the left.


We couldn't find the tee for 14. The map showed a tee left of the 13th green. After a while we decided that the 14th must have been changed so we climbed into the dunes. A tee was found, but our hearts sank. The hole on offer is nefarious. The knob to knob shot requires unnatural precision. This is where I had a losing battle with a sand pit. My ball nearly reached the green before rolling back 30+ yard to be stopped by sand. This hole doesn't accomodate a nearly great shot!


The green from 15 tee.


More to follow.

Ciao
« Last Edit: Yesterday at 11:59:47 PM by Sean_A »
New plays planned for 2024: Fraserburgh, Hankley Common, Ashridge, Gog Magog Old & Cruden Bay St Olaf

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