Sandwiched between the huge port of Zeebrugge and the Nederland border is the Belgian resort of Knokke. Between the two countries is the Zwin, a nature reserve well known for its salt resistant flora. At one time this tidal inlet connected Bruges with the sea, but this silted up long ago, hence the reason for constructing the relatively new port of Zeebrugge. Knokke is not without its charms with a large beach as its focal point, however, we have come to Knokke for one reason and that is to play a course in the fashionable Zoute district of town. The neighbourhood is quite obviously heavily influenced by wealthy British tourists seeking clean sea air in the early part of the last century. As a result, and with the foresight of the still very well known Lippens family, what we now know as Royal Zoute was eventually built. The history of the courses is a bit muddled, but it would seem the Championship Course is perhaps 50% Colt (many alterations required due to war time damage). It would also seem The Harris Brothers built the course and Suttons provided the seed for what must have been a challenging project to grow grass among the dunes.
Flanders is generally quite flat, except for this small coastal section around Knokke so the location for the course was not accidental. Like Royal Lytham, le Zoute is now cut off from the sea by a hundred years of urbanization, but there is an unmistakable links quality to the turf; although, it is safe to say Lytham’s surrounding neighbourhood is somewhat less grand than that of le Zoute.
As one of a small handful of premier clubs in Belgium, it is no surprise le Zoute has hosted the Belgium Open on many occasions. Illustrious golfers such as Walter Hagen (1924), Roberto De Vicenzo (1950) and Nick Faldo (1994) all claimed victory on this storied course. Sadly, the event can no longer provide the purse required to draw the top names in the game and is now a minor Open in Europe. As hinted at previously, the terrain and turf at le Zoute are perfect for golf. There is a lovely mix of rolling holes not dissimilar to the London Heathlands mixed in with a few flat holes. Unfortunately, most of the flatter holes are rather uninspiring. This indifferent golf is most evident on the opening and closing two holes, despite some good land movement on 17 and the best green on the course at 18.
After two prosaic opening holes, perhaps the best hole on the course comes on the third. Well known for his par 3s, it is ironic then that the one-shot 3rd is not a Colt hole. This hole would be difficult if played straight to the green...
now turn the green oblong and we have a challenging hole with great interest. The green is a two-tier affair, a trait we shall see a few times in the round.
#4 takes us to roly poly ground. There is a hidden bunker left which will catch a kareemed drive if one is lucky. The alternative to sand is likely a lost ball in the trees. The green slopes quite a but from the rear so its essential to stay below the hole. The fifth is a short par 5 which turns hard left and crosses two pinching bunkers. While short, the green is a tough target to hit in two.
The 6th too runs over tumbling terrain and features a false front. Most of the greens with movement are one or two-tier, back to front or false front types. Like #6, the 7th too is difficult. There is no respite at the 8th, a par 3 of some 210 yards. With the exception of 11, the par 3s are quite challenging.
#9 turns sharply between dunes to a green hidden by sand well short of the putting surface. Probably the best par 4 on the course, the tenth is a sort of double dogleg. The fairway first turns left around a 10-12 foot mesa like dune. There are two bunkers on the mesa, but flat bellies can consider having a go at the carry. The green is behind rumpling, high ground with bunkers protecting the front corners.
#10
Continuing the relentless march around the perimeter of the course, the 11th seemed to capture something that is amiss with the design. The green complexes don't feel right to me, or at least they feel very un-Colt-like, especially for a Harris Brothers job. The green surfaces seem a bit disconnected from the shaping and bunkering. The twelfth is a hard par 5. The fairway hugs the boundary line, but there seems to be a spur heading right as well. I found myself very confused on the tee. In the end, I decided to play out right rather than try a blindish hook. I am still not sure, but I seemed to be on a part of the course which didn't lead to the 12th green (it was a blind shot back to the fairway) or to a hole on the inner course...very strange. The next, a longish par 4, is the only hole at Zoute which doesn't have a bunker. The hole can be short-cut a bit by driving over the left-hand hollow. The approach is blind to a green without much interest.
We turn back on ourselves for the 14th. A medium-length par 4 turning right between mesa dunes. The bunkers housed in the dunes don't look the part and that was the same story the entire day.
The angled, heavily sloped green is very good.
Another good hole and I think the best three-shotter, #15 plays down a secluded avenue of trees. A cut out gouges into the fairway as it turns left making for an excellent second shot if the drive isn't stellar. The front of the green is heavily guarded by three bunkers.
The tough golf continues with the very intimidating 16th. The blind bunker down the right is reminiscent of Raynor.
Just as the course was gaining momentum for a final strong push, a few tough, but unremarkable holes finish the round. Mind you, the best green was saved for last, 18.
The house befits the stature of the club.
I have mixed feelings about le Zoute. I get the impression the turf and terrain should have produced something a bit special. It could be that some prime property was sacrificed to the inner course and that some of Colt's ingenuity was wiped off the face of the earth during WWII. In any case, the course doesn't quite do it for me. Among several decent to bland holes, there are only four (#s 3, 5, 10 & 16) which really turned my head. Given that magnificent terrain and superb turf, I would have expected an exceptional design; Zoute falls well short of this. Still, if I do make it back to Bruges, I may make time for a return visit. It will be difficult to do because Bruges is an outrageously beautiful city punching miles beyond its size. 2014
Jerusalem Chapel
Hudenvettersplein
Rozenhoedkaii
Walplein
Ciao