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James Boon

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I first played Royal West Norfolk, commonly known as Brancaster several years ago, after two things peaked my interest to play it as soon as possible: Firstly Tom Doak’s write up in his Confidential Guide made the place sound fascinating and secondly I discovered that the area is subject to heavy levels of erosion and being low lying also subject to the possibility of rising sea levels, so there is a good chance the course might be one of the first to disappear to these threats…

The course has been around since 1892 and was laid out by Holcombe Ingleby, a local solicitor and politician. The course claims that the course has changed lttle since his day, but there have been some changes to the routing as we will find out shortly. When I’d almost finished this thread I recalled seeing one by Mr Muldoon a few years back, so here is Tony’s take on Brancaster
http://golfclubatlas.com/forum/index.php/topic,28076.0/
but as I’d virtually finished writing this thread I decided to post this thread also. Also this recent trip was also documented here…
 http://golfclubatlas.com/forum/index.php/topic,46416.0.html

You drive along a narrow road that is also used to access the beach. You will need to have checked the tide times with the secretary before you make the trip as this road is in fact tidal, though I believe its only really high tides that cut off the road to potentially strand you out at the clubhouse. But it’s a very fine clubhouse, not the biggest, but one of my favourites. I think this is helped by how you can see the clubhouse from virtually every hole on the course.


The clubhouse sits next to a beautiful long beach


But the coastal erosion that threatens the club means that the defences to the clubhouse are quite significant


The extent of the erosion can be seen on this aerial. The practice ground is to the bottom left with the first tee and 18th green across the sandy path to the beach, with the beach car park on the right.


From the clubhouse you cross the sandy path through here…


Then through this gate that doubles up as a war memorial to club members killed in past conflicts. There is also a sign to the side, letting you know the times of the tides, followed when through the gate by another sign keeping you in check



Hole 1
415 yards
Par 4
The tee shot on the first is across the 18th green to a fairway also shared with the home hole. Though there is plenty of room out there, the best line is to hug the dunes up the left and as you get closer to the green the fairway does narrow with a small pot bunker and some undulations up the right


A closer look at the green and you can see how its sits into the dune and runs off to the right with the bunkers down there


Looking from behind you can see the width of the fairway before it narrows, and the clubhouse watching over this hole as it does most of the course, even though its set back from the course itself


Hole 2   
449 yards
Par 4
The drive on the second crosses over the 17th coming the other way. The large sleeper faced bunker really tempts you to take it on but the line isn’t as far left as you would think, and a closer look at that monster bunker



The long approach to the green seems straightforward enough but the green all runs away to the back right so any long running approach can just keep running over the back


Hole 3   
403 yards
Par 4
An excellent par 4 this. At various points of the course, the tidal marsh comes into play, and this is your first experience of it, with the ideal drive carrying as much of the corner of the marsh as possible to leave a shot straight down the green. A bail out left has to contend with bunkers to the left of the fairway and then an approach to the green, again across bunkers. From this picture from the tee, you can see that at times Brancaster certainly isn’t the most photogenic of courses…


This is the view from the centre of the fairway. In front of you is a bank built up with more railway sleepers with a couple of bunkers in front of it. This formation makes the approach pretty much blind, but also catches anyone wanting to get close to the green having first found a fairway bunker


When you get past the ridge of sleepers and bunkers the ground is pretty level to the green, but a very deep bunker eats in on the left and the back tier is lower than the front


A side view from the next tee shows the last portion of the hole, play is from right to left as seen here


Hole 4 
129 yards
Par 3
This is the hole on which CB Macdonald is believed to have originally modelled his “short” hole, though he mentions it as the 5th and so there would have been an additional hole somewhere in the first 3 holes, with the current 6th the most likely new hole to replace the lost one?

Unless the winds are really strong it’s a fairly straightforward short iron shot, but miss the green and the drop offs all around will leave an interesting chip


The 14th green is in close proximity behind


The railway sleepered embankment that cuts in to the right side of the green


Hole 5
437 yards
Par 4
Tricky to get the right line on this blind drive even with the marker posts as your line is further right than it appears. The pot bunker looks intimidating, but should be easily carried


Quite deep if you do find it though!


Though its tricky to get the line of the drive, its quite an open fairway. However, the approach is to a well guarded green


Hole 6 
184 yards
Par 3
The path to the 6th takes you across the 7th fairway and back in what appears to be the wrong direction, hence this rather helpful sign


Your tee shot here will often require a fairly long club, to a tricky green to hit and the tidal marsh off to the left to catch any severe hooks. At the green is a bunker short right, a steep bank to climb, and drop off along the left


This view from behind the green shows the tidal marsh to the right and the 7th fairway to the left which was crossed to get to this tee. There is a back tee set out into the tidal marsh which gives a much trickier shot to this already tricky green.


Hole 7 
493 yards
Par 5
A reachable par 5, but I expect the lack of pictures that I took could be seen as evidence to it not being too exciting (apart from the 20ft eagle putt I set myself up with). On your drive you will need to keep an eye out for players crossing from the 5th to 6th. Also the approach is not easy as the 12th green is very much in play on the left and the tidal marsh is just to the right behind a small sand bank.

Hole 8 
494 yards
Par 5
Possibly one of the best par 5s I know of, purely from a strategic point of view as the hole really isn’t much to look at! Here is an annotated aerial to show you whats up ahead

The fairway is a sliver of land with tidal marsh to each side. The braver your line from the tee the more likely that you will be able to reach the second sliver of fairway, or the green itself, in two shots. Doesn’t get any simpler than that really does it?

The tee markers are nice and simple also


The tee shot over the marsh, which has been pretty dry most times I’ve played it, though it is worth pointing out that my ball that just ran over the fairway came to rest on some flotsam from a recent high tide so it must be wet some of the time


The far side of the fairway showing the bank down to the tidal marsh


A wooden bridge over the marsh


The very simple green with no further trouble around it, but it is deceptively contoured, certainly more so than I remember from my last visit


Hole 9
405 yards
Par 4
The CBM connection continues here at the 9th. George Bahto’s excellent The Evangelist of Golf, discusses the Golf Illustrated article that listed the best holes of the time. It mentions as one of the great par 4s of the time as “the intimidating greenside bunkering at the 9th at Brancaster”. Also mentioned is the 1907 issue of Golf Illustrated where an article by CBM mentions a possible ideal 18 holes with the 9th is suggested to be a 350 yard hole “ similar 9th Brancaster”. However, it doesn’t appear a strategy he recreated anywhere??? Also, Darwin describes the 9th in some detail:

"a hole of which men used to speak with the same reverential awe with which they alluded to the 'Maiden' at Sandwich. Certainly that bunker in front of the green is sufficiently desperate, and to be compelled to approach the hole with a brassey may well inspire fear, but a good drive on a calm day should leave us little more than a firm half iron shot to play, and then we can afford to treat the bunker almost with contempt."

and later...

"we may be just short with our second - a matter of six inches perhaps - and we shall be battering the bunkers unyielding face till our card is shattered and wrecked."

There is also one of Roundtree's paintings of the 9th green and 10th tee in Darwin’s book, which looks to be the same as we play today? So Darwin's comparison with Sandwich's Maiden was in the sense of the fear felt getting past said obstacle, rather than a direct physical comparison and the bunker in question is believed to be the tidal marsh we play over now.

To get to the 9th tee, you cross back to the other side of the marsh just crossed



Quite a rolling fairway here. The further left is probably best to give a slightly easier angle to the green, but you need to be careful of players on the 10th tee coming back the other way. The approach to the green is over further tidal marsh, with the green built up behind a bank of railway sleepers. The 9th green is the furthest point from the clubhouse and yet the clubhouse can still be seen in the distance.




Lastly a look back from the 10th tee


So that’s the front nine which reads as follows, 3,409 yards to a par of 36. Back nine to follow shortly.

Cheers,

James
2023 Highlights: Hollinwell (Notts), Brora, Aberdovey, Royal St Davids, Woodhall Spa, Broadstone, Parkstone, Cleeve, Painswick, Minchinhampton, Hoylake

"It celebrates the unadulterated pleasure of being in a dialogue with nature while knocking a ball round on foot." Richard Pennell

James Boon

  • Karma: +0/-0
Hole 10
149 yards
Par 3
A shortish par 3 to a well guarded green begins your journey home.


A well guarded green with a mix of railway sleeper faced bunkers and revetted faces as well


A shaved run off area to the rear of the green gives added protection to this small green and also some interesting sleepers to one of the front bunkers, but on the side furthest from the green, something I’d only seen previously at Nairn (and probably Castle Stuart as well?)



Hole 11  
476 yards
Par 5
One slightly frustrating element of Brancaster for me is the par 5s. In the 8th, they have one which could be considered World class, the other two aren’t memorable at all? Here is the approach to 11…


Hole 12  
379 yards
Par 4
The tee here is built up on the dune ridge and you head inland to a dogleg fairway. The approach is then blind and over a ridge, to a punchbowl green


Here is the green seen from the left hand side, with the next tee built up on the dune behind


Hole 13
316 yards
Par 4
A short par 3 that doglegs to the right. Played from a raised tee, you’ll have plenty of room for a layup


But anything at the green that ends up short will be a tricky shot as there are a couple of bushes just short right of the green. An approach from back in the fairway isn’t easy either as there is a steep drop off over the back.



Hole 14  
430 yards
Par 4
A testing par 4 that plays pretty long. The approach is to a small but punchbowl like green, the main defence for which is this hollow of bunkers and sleepers about 50 yards short


Here’s the green seen from just short, with the 4th green just to the left


Hole 15
188 yards
Par 3
The last par 3 plays across an intimidating sleeper faced bunker set into a dune, that hides the green surface from view.

The deep cross bunker


Once past the bunker there is room to play a shot in from the right, but a slope all along the left edge of the green that leaves a tricky recovery


Hole 16
337 yards
Par 4
The tee on the 16th is up against the dunes behind the beach and hence the beach huts adjacent to it


Several bunkers up the left protect a reasonably straightforward tee shot but if you want to get a bit closer to the green a couple of bunkers pinch in on the right. The green itself then sits up high on top of the dunes with a pot bunker being rebuilt short left and the next tee on the right of the green


Hole 17
392 yards
Par 4
The penultimate hole isn’t the most memorable hole on the course but you will still need to keep your concentration. The drive from the back tee is across the 16th green, then it crosses over the 2nd hole, doglegging to the right and they share the same long fairway, one end for hole, the other end for the other. There are a number of bunkers on the right, in the broken ground beneath the 2nd tee. Here’s the approach to the green


Hole 18
381 yards
Par 4
Back to the wide double fairway shared with the first.


The approach is over one final sleeper faced bunker, but this is probably the widest one on the course, to a green that slopes front right down to back left


And finally looking back down the green from behind to see the detail of a railway sleeper eyebrow


So that’s a shorter back nine at 3,048 yards, to a par of 35, but it is more likely you will be playing into the wind on this nine. The total yardage for the course is 6,457 yards to a par of 71. However, all of the par 5s are of a length that could easily be considered par 4s in todays day and age, so if they did ever decide to play it as a par 68 it would be a stern test, but this would be at the expense of the 8th hole, so that would be a daft idea!

So if you do fancy experiencing some good old fashioned golf, head to Brancaster as soon as you can!

Cheers,

James
« Last Edit: December 30, 2010, 07:31:58 AM by James Boon »
2023 Highlights: Hollinwell (Notts), Brora, Aberdovey, Royal St Davids, Woodhall Spa, Broadstone, Parkstone, Cleeve, Painswick, Minchinhampton, Hoylake

"It celebrates the unadulterated pleasure of being in a dialogue with nature while knocking a ball round on foot." Richard Pennell

John Mayhugh

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Thanks for the excellent tour.  I hope it's not too long before I have a chance pass through these gates and see this gem in person.



Jim Eder

James,

GREAT post of such a wonderful place. It is such an experience. Terrific pics and write up, reading this makes me wish I could play there again tomorrow. Add a visit to Hunstanton with it and life is truly great!! Thank you for the excellent post.

Jason Topp

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Thank you James.  It looks like a very challenging and enjoyable course on flat land.

Eric Smith

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Thanks for the tour, James.  I hope to have the opportunity to play here one of these days, along with a stay at the Le Strange Arms!

Bill_McBride

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Here's James' photo of the right side of #4, Macdonald's inspiration for the Short hole.  What do you want to bet this was filled with sand in the early years?


Tony_Muldoon

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Thanks for a wonderful tour.  I’m aching to get back.


I’m pleased that I didn’t appear to be missing anything about 7.  It’s a puzzle you’d have thought someone in the past century would have tried a couple of bunker placements to add interest.

Tom MacWood has posted a picture of the old first tee shot.  It used to play from where the beach extends to now, over a huge bunker in the face of dune, all now lost to erosion. He put it in a Quiz and until I got there I didn’t believe he had the right course!


Sadly this is the reason why we may never be able to take BUDA there.




Wait, just a thought: there is something missing from your report.  ;)


Let's make GCA grate again!

Kevin Pallier

  • Karma: +0/-0
Thanks James

What were your favourite holes there ? your least favourite ?

I love the old clubhouse and the squeaky floorboards throughout - it certainly has a lot of old charm about it.

Tom_Doak

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James:  That place is really golf as it was meant to be.

When I was first there in 1982, and still ten years later when I went back, the marsh in front of the ninth green was much sandier and more formalized as a bunker, as in Darwin's day.  I wonder if they have been forbidden by regulations to go in and clean it up every so often?

Today's par-3 4th was indeed the fifth hole in Macdonald's day.  I believe two shorter holes were combined to make the present 3rd; and I am certain that the par-3 6th hole was added in the years since then to lengthen the course, gaining both its length and gaining a shot to par on the 7th by putting the tee back so it's a par-5.  That little area of the course (5 green, 6 tee, 7 fairway) is a real shooting gallery safety-wise, but it seems to work remarkably well for the membership ... perhaps it's one reason they insist on two-ball matches!

Jamie Barber

I was quite surprised by Brancaster. I expected it to play short and quirky but it didn't at all. The 9th I thought was a strange green site on a links course because it's essentially an island green; except that it seems the marsh is often dry (at least I've not seen any pictures of it wet).

I loved the relaxed charm of the old clubhouse.

Dale Jackson

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Brancaster encapsulizes everything that is good with golf.  Challenge, beauty, strategy, and at times bewilderment.

I had the chance to visit there for the second time this September and had the pleasure of being accompanied by a long-time and storied member.  He described the links and club perfectly - slightly old fashioned and slightly eccentric.
I've seen an architecture, something new, that has been in my mind for years and I am glad to see a man with A.V. Macan's ability to bring it out. - Gene Sarazen

Brian_Ewen

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Thanks for posting.

Great stuff  :)

James Boon

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All, thanks for your comments. I’ll try to answer a few queries.

John, I hope you do get to play Brancaster one day and pass through the memorial gate. All these signs made me think of you for some reason, possibly the quirky items you photograph on course which most others would pass bye, particularly the “next green” sign pointing you which way to go which I have never seen anywhere before…

Jason, there is indeed good use of the flat land at Brancaster, but the dune ridge along the coast comes into play quite a bit, so its probably only half the course that feels flat, the other half is full of dune like character.

Eric, I’ve not stayed there but the name alone makes it sound well, strange?

Tony, the photos you mention Tom MacWood posting as being from British Golf Links by Horace Hutchinson? I got the reprint of this for Christmas so if I can get the scanner working I will add them to the thread unless Tom spots this before me. That dune you mention on the first would be pretty spectacular to play over! Also, I think we could in the future combine Brancaster with Hunstanton for a Buda, but it would obviously depend on everyone playing either foursomes, or we would have a large block booking of singles. Not easy, but hopefully not impossible and bearing in mind there are already 4 posts from guys who played on the American Buda team last year I think most of them would be up for it as well? And yes dogs are very welcome at Brancaster, and the only ones I’ve ever seen have been black Labradors in true stereotypical style!

Kevin, my favourite hole is the 3rd, with the 1st not far behind. The 8th is great but not being a looker certainly takes a little away from it, while 9th, 14th and 15th are also good holes but not quite as good for me as the 3rd. My least favourite would probably be either the 7th or 11th. Both are fairly nonedescript short par 5s, and being in such close proximity as a great short par 5 like the 8th, just makes them look worse?

Bill, good thought! I suspect the area below the sleepers on the 4th was possibly a larger waste bunker / dune and probably the similar areas on the 3rd and 14th where there are sleepers at the top of a large bank which now contains formal bunkers.

Tom, thanks for fleshing out your understanding of the courses rerouting and backing up that the marsh short of the 9th used to be a more formal bunker. You mention the 5th green to 6th tee walk and the safety aspect. This is something I have often discussed with fellow GCAer Ben Stephens as he will often see changes that could be made on a course for safety reasons but he loves Brancaster so much he doesn’t want to change this one. Having thought about it, I suspect the safety issue isn’t such a problem due to the smaller number of players on the links with it being a 2 ball only course?

Jamie, I seem to recall a picture in Planet Golf which shows the area short of the 9th with water in it? You mention its character as being more like an island green. I often think its amazing that Pete Dye didn’t visit Brancaster when he made his famed trip to study the links of Scotland in the 1960s, but from what I recall he never came south of the border?

Cheers,

James
2023 Highlights: Hollinwell (Notts), Brora, Aberdovey, Royal St Davids, Woodhall Spa, Broadstone, Parkstone, Cleeve, Painswick, Minchinhampton, Hoylake

"It celebrates the unadulterated pleasure of being in a dialogue with nature while knocking a ball round on foot." Richard Pennell

Tom_Doak

  • Karma: +1/-1
James B:  I can confirm that Pete Dye did not get to Brancaster until the mid to late 1980's.  I know that because when we were working on the planning for PGA West, I showed a bunch of my pictures from overseas to the Dyes and to the clients, and they all fell in love with my photo of the 9th green at Brancaster.  There is a sleepered bunker on the Stadium course which was the result of that slide slow, and the photo of Brancaster used to hang in the back offices at LaQuinta and at Oak Tree.

Pete also asked me about some of my other pictures and the next trip he took overseas -- I think it was with Lee Schmidt, who was the project manager for PGA West -- he made a point of going to several of the places I'd shown him that he had never been.  Cruden Bay and Brancaster were at the top of that list.

James Boon

  • Karma: +0/-0
Tom,

Thanks for the additional information on Pete Dye.

Here is the picture from Planet Golf I mentioned earlier, of the 9th which shows the tidal marsh flooded.


Cheers,

James
2023 Highlights: Hollinwell (Notts), Brora, Aberdovey, Royal St Davids, Woodhall Spa, Broadstone, Parkstone, Cleeve, Painswick, Minchinhampton, Hoylake

"It celebrates the unadulterated pleasure of being in a dialogue with nature while knocking a ball round on foot." Richard Pennell

Jamie Barber

That's what I meant about an "island green" - well maybe Jean VdV might fancy his chances from there but I wouldn't :)

I do love those tee markers too - I noticed at the weekend St George's are basically the same.

Mark Chaplin

  • Karma: +0/-0
James - great post

Mayday - it is both amazing and distressing to see those gates commemorate around 40 members killed during the world wars. From memory Deal lost around a dozen members and half a dozen staff in WW1. The East India, Devonshire, Sports and Public Schools club in St James Square has a memorial to 800 members who perished in WW1.

For those with an interest in the wars every town and village has a war memorial and it is sad to see 20, 30 or more names on the smallest village memorials. The impact of the first world war was felt in every corner of the land.
Cave Nil Vino

Sean_A

  • Karma: +0/-0
Boony

Lovely tour.  I don't remember the course appearing so flat.  I need to get back Brancaster and I see no reason why it can't be explored for a Buda so long as two 4somes games are offered per day.  Plus, there is nothing wrong with using it as a pre/post event for two balls.

Ciao
New plays planned for 2024: Dunfanaghy, Fraserburgh, Hankley Common, Ashridge, Gog Magog Old & Cruden Bay St Olaf

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